Back in Japan—for the 11th time

     I think this is my 11th time visiting Japan, so brace yourself for some heavy reckless generalizations peppered in my posts throughout my time here.
     I slept in the Bangkok airport for a few hours as my flight was early this morning. My usual place by where the distressed airlines (Druk Air, Royal Nepal Airlines, Bangladesh Biman) have their check-in counters was taken, but I was resourceful and found a decent, quiet, soft place.
     I used 10,000 United frequent flier miles and paid $22 in taxes to fly 6 hours from Bangkok to Tokyo one way. That’s a great deal. I have a hunch that my frequent flier miles page is the least-viewed page on my website, which is a shame because there is some good information.
     I had thoughts of trying to hitchhike from the airport all the way up to Nagano prefecture, but since Japan doesn’t have daylight savings time, it gets dark early and I decided to go the way I know, which is too boring and complicated to explain.

     One of these days I will make a post with the title, “Japan Is Not Expensive”, but I am still in shock at the incredibly awful exchange rate at the moment: 83 yen equals one dollar.
     But I say that it isn’t as expensive as one would think because Japan has stagflation or even deflation and prices never change. The train from the airport to town has been 1000 yen forever. (The 1000 yen, 80 minute Keisei limited express train isn’t well-publicized, but I am still chagrined so many people take the 2000 yen, 60 minute non-stop train.) I might change my mind with this horror of an exchange rate; we’ll see.
     I have a friend who wants to visit Japan because of its architecture, but if she took the train from the the airport to town, she would be in for a shock. Japan can be incredibly ugly. Most houses are made to last only 20 years or so and are simple and boxy but not in an artistic, minimalist way. The initial feeling you get is that Tokyo must be an inhumane place.

     Shio insisted on treating me to a miso ramen


     At the first highway parking area out of Tokyo I made my way through a back employee entrance to where I got a highway map and was walking out to hitchhike when a guy who had been eyeing me said something and we got to talking and he gave me a ride. Easy. It is very unusual for a Japanese to approach me, even in their cautious way where they mumble something, propelling me to be the first one to speak.
     His name was Shio and he is a master gardener/arborist. He drives over 100km once a week just to do a famous folksinger’s garden. More interesting to me was that he has to carry all the clippings and waste in his car all the way back to where he lives because in Tokyo you can’t just leave that stuff anywhere.
     I waited a long time for the next ride. Maybe it was too dark or my clothes were too dark or I looked like a zombie with my tired face. The ride was from two guys who had decided to stop after they had already driven 200 meters past me, but they didn’t back up. I have seen it so many times by now that I am convinced that the Japanese are unable to drive in reverse. The driver sent his poor friend to run over to talk to me and after some protracted consultations with the map and my rusty Japanese, he called back to see if it was OK to take me.
     I’m dead tired.

Causing a small commotion on Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree

     Traveling around the world with a 1961 Quebec license plate was not my intention

A small ruckus arose when I posted this (I thought) innocuous post on the Lonely Planet Thorn Tree:

Hello from Bangkok everyone,
     I flew to Bangkok from Milan for only 174 euros including all taxes and I show you how to find these deals on my new website: “TheDromomaniac.com: The Science and Philosophy of One-Way Travel” where I encourage people to travel around the world on one-way tickets and give details about how to approach it: https://thedromomaniac.com/
     I also have a blog where I give my favorite things to do in Bangkok that most people wouldn’t include, but it’s a big city with a lot to offer.
     I have traveled for most of the last 24 years and I like to think I have good practical information or at least some ideas to mull over. In fact, it would be tragic if I didn’t after all that traveling!
     I hope you enjoy it! Thanks for your time,
-Kent

And then I got these four comments:

#1 “so you advocate everyone should print a fake onward ticket to gain entry into Thailand? an interesting concept of which I admire you greatly for your tenacity and bravado – I suggest you read about Frank Abagnale Jr.
By the way – he did go to prison eventually for quite a long time.
here’s my advice:
THE SOONER YOU GET CAUGHT THE BETTER
people like you are a nuisance. You think the system is there to be circumvented, that the rules are there to be broken. What you actually do is provide terrorists with new ideas and ways to blow the rest of us up.
looking for cheap travel is one thing, but telling people to break the law?
I think you’re a (f—–) idiot”

#2 “thought I would speed up your travel process for you Kent, I have sent (your) link to immigration. I suspect they may be interested in talking to you. wouldn’t it be funny if they cancelled your passport?”

#3 “Maybe Kent spelt his name wrong!”

#4 “I hope they cancel his passport.Its losoers like him who misguide youngsters into illegalities. Kent youre a prick.”

     I feel the love! This is the link. Either Lonely Planet censored the post and took it off or you have to register to view the thread or I don’t know what happened.
     It is disturbing to see how many Thais use whitening cream for their skin. White skin isn’t my idea of beauty especially if you have to unnaturally make it white. The girls I see using these creams, it gives them an unhealthy-looking, ghoulish pallor. It’s a shame that TV commercials and print ads perpetuate this sense of beauty by always showing Thai women—often with faint western features—with their whitened faces.

How Bangkok used to be

     Warning: this post contains reminiscing, flashbacks, history and possibly a rant or two. Usually when I start talking about how Bangkok or anywhere else used to be in the good old days with people younger than myself, they make a pitying look that suggests I should sit down and take a rest.

Once upon a time in Bangkok
On Khao San Road a big black taxi like the kind seen in London was parked on the street—this by itself is hard to imagine now with it’s space-intensive commerce—and a wire ran from a telephone office up and over and down into the car and that was your phone booth to make international calls.
I visited the world’s largest restaurant, Tum Nak Thai, which has long since closed. I don’t remember the food or the entertainment on the stage in the middle of a man-made lake, but I will never forget the waiters and waitresses, everyone on roller skates, racing each other back to the kitchen after serving the food and all the subsequent crashes and near misses.
Before the internet, every morning we all made a pilgrimage on the Chao Phraya River ferry boat to the main post office to see if letters had arrived for us. It was the poste restante feeding time. Those lucky enough to get letters read them immediately on the GPO steps. We commiserated with those who got no mail, who had to do the same routine the next day.
Before bus drivers and ticket takers had spiffy uniforms and special, government-issue belt buckles, a shoeless kid barely a meter tall would be roaming the bus and selling tickets. While the driver went careening insanely around a corner and the passengers held on for dear life waiting for an axel to snap, the kid could stand in the middle of the bus, take money and issue a ticket without touching anything and without watching the driver, he was so skillful. What does a kid with such talent do later in life?

     Everyone has a Bangkok story. It’s this kind of place: once a girl came up to me and asked if I was in Greece two years earlier. And I was.
     On a recent trip I couldn’t sleep and at 5am wandered the streets of the Khao San Road area. It was another world. The ladyboys were out in droves, as were quite a few backpackers looking to meet them. I kept walking along Soi Rambuttri and behind the temple came across three western men and a Thai girl, all very bloodied and bruised and in great pain, writhing on the street. It was a sickening scene. Apparently there had been an argument with some Thais and by the time I came, an incensed Thai guy had reappeared with a wooden club. A growing crowd of us gasped and didn’t know what to do. A brave Frenchman approached the Thai and somehow got him to at least put the club down. More people came and the situation was diffused enough that the Frenchman and I left to go to the police station where they seemed uninterested. As we split up, the Frenchman said to me, “I wish you courage.”
     It was the right thing to say; the truth hurt.

My idea of a good time in Bangkok is…(and these are never on anyone’s lists)

     To get you in the mood for all things great about Bangkok, you have to see this video of Palmy performing the classic, “Yark Rong Dunk Dunk”. It is one of the greatest, most innocent pop songs and videos ever. Trust me on this. Have I ever let you down?


 

My idea of a good time in Bangkok is…
(…and these are never on anyone’s lists)
Taking the San Saeb canal boats. These alone almost make life worth living. This ferry service is the best way to get from the Khao San Road area to the Siam Square area. The canal is quite narrow and the boats are pretty big, yet they fly through. The ticket takers perch themselves on the edge of the boats for the whole trip and the reason they have helmets is that one bridge is so low that they have to duck together with the boat that has a collapsible roof.
Visiting the Anatomy Museum in the Siriraj hospital. It’s the most nausea-inducing museum ever–and who doesn’t want to be nauseous in the midday tropical heat? Don’t eat before you go and you won’t want to eat after. It’s a big place and I almost blew chunks when I saw a preserved one inch/three centimeter cross-section of a human body as seen from the side.
Feeding fish at the Thewet pier. People sell bread to promulgate this. I was just in Italy so I fed them some ciabatta, but I thought I heard one fish complain, “What? No parmagiano cheese? You’re killing me!”

Getting cool belt buckles such as the ones the transit workers use. Some schools also have belt buckles with interesting designs, but I never know how to ask where to get one. I see a kid and point at their belt buckle–which is pointing at their mid-section–and they think, “Ah, he’s THAT kind of tourist”.
Drinking Green Spot, which is an orange drink. The name alone, like another drink, Kickapoo Joy Juice, make it worth trying.
Getting giant Coke/Pepsi/soymilk stickers from the distributors on the street, but this is getting harder to do.
Hearing massage requests from the street as “Hello, masSAAAAHHH!”. It’s the little things…
Seeing the May-November couples. I know I shouldn’t stare, but it is interesting for me to see all the combinations of western men and Thai women. These aren’t all temporary arrangements, either. There were lots of such families on my plane.
Visiting the foreigners in prison. I was at the Bang Kwang prison up in Nonthaburi years ago, but last I heard it isn’t so easy to visit nowadays and the killer for me is I have to wear long pants.

     I plan on flying to Japan later this week. I had thought of going to Malaysia and Singapore and then flying to Japan, but the great disappointment of this is that I can’t work on my Singaporean English. My life’s dream is to speak fluent Singlish. If you have never heard it, watch this Singaporean movie, Chicken Rice War (with subtitles!)

Going with the ultra-high voice in Thailand

     I consciously change my voice when trying to speak certain languages because I have it in my head that this is the best way to be understood. In Brazil I sound like Dracula; in Hungary, like I am about to cry; in Germany, a news anchorman; in Norway, the Swedish Chef; and here in Thailand, a eunuch. I go for the ultra-high voice.
     I have been to Bangkok 10 or 15 or 20 times. Whatever it is, it’s too many, but all roads lead to Bangkok. Name me another city in the world that is more of a travellers hub. You can’t.
     I made another pilgrimage to the Chatuchak Weekend Market to see what was new. I only bought a t-shirt, but it was a doozy. I fancy myself a level-headed man, not an impulsive shopper by any means, but when I saw this I had to have it, black and V-neck be damned:
     I have my favorite sections in the market to go so I didn’t get sucked into the sauna-like conditions of most of it. In that sense it is nice that Chatuchak was pretty much same-same. It begs the question: what is different about Bangkok this time?
—There are more 7-11s, which is hard to imagine as before they seemed to be everywhere. I saw two directly across the street from each other. What’s next? One on top of the other?
—Dentists for foreigners are a growth industry.
—The Thai baht is at a two-year high against the dollar (The Japanese yen is at a 12-year high, which doesn’t bode well for my next destination) and there’s a new $5 ATM fee to take out any amount of money.
—Half of the downtown shopping district is eerily quiet since the destruction from the riots, but the rest is business as usual. Life goes on for the Thais and absolutely nothing will stop tourists from coming to Thailand. Coups, riots, tsunamis, SARS, AIDS–there’s only a lull.

Pop quiz: top 5 nationalities that fly into Bangkok?

     Pop quiz: what are the top five nationalities (other than Thai) that fly into Bangkok airport? I bet you can’t get three of them. Answer at the end of the post.
     I chickened out about hitching to the airport. I didn’t like the look of the two possible places to start and I wasn’t feeling risky, so I did the bus-train-bus and played it safe. I made a train change in Strombini, a languid place so sleepy that it felt like I was in an old Italian black and white movie. All the houses has a faded sepia tint with flower pots on the window sills, overgrown vegetation in vacant lots, and a variety of people all slowed by the heat of the day. Italy shows many faces. I can see why it has a pull on people.
     When I bought my ticket for this flight, paying 174 euros, I checked the rate that day and 174 euros equaled $229. On the bill later it was also $229. That’s rare. That’s why I like my Capital One credit card, though less than whole-heartedly because at the same time I intensely hate the rigamarole I have to go through to use it abroad. I shouldn’t have to have their phone number on my Skype list of contacts because I need to call them so much. Same with you, Paypal!
     At Milan’s Malpensa (“Bad Thought”) airport Blu Express/Blue Panorama Airlines (whichever they want to be called) asked if I had an onward ticket, then I was asked if I had already bought the ticket, and I was ready to be asked to show it, but he stopped short. I’m telling you, though, I needed to have the fake onward ticket. They go hand in hand with one way tickets, as I drill home on my website. I had a fake Phuket-Singapore flight on Silkair ready to show in accordance with my rules on this.
     There was too much anarchy on the plane so the flight attendants closed all the toilets. Too many people were sneaking in for a smoke, so it was by request only. The other neat part of this trick is that the seatbelt sign was on for almost the entire flight.
     11 hours to Bangkok not including a short stop in Rome. I always say that if you go look in the mirror near the end of such a long flight, that’s what you will look like 10 years from now.
     Bangkok has a new airport train. I am such a big fan of new mass transit options and avoiding the bus that I took it without worrying about how I can make a connection from the end station. I don’t care where it goes, I’m supporting it. I love it.

     I am in the Khao San Road area just because it is my only chance to meet up with Werner, but I can only handle it one night. Khao San Road gives me the skeeves, but it sucks me in. I ran into Werner last year in Bali and the year before that in Brazil.
     The top five Bangkok airport arrivals come from, in order, Japan, China, UK, India, USA.

Rethinking Italy under a glacier in Monte Bianco

     I braved the elements today to explore Mont Blanc/Monte Bianco’s south side: ferocious blue skies, unrelenting soft breezes and treacherous flat paths. It is said that from the French side Mont Blanc looks like a white dome while on this side Monte Bianco has a more jagged appearance, but it was fantastic regardless of what is on the other side. I can’t believe I thought I would putz around Aosta town today.
     Courmayeur at the base of the mountain and the last town before France had a supply of women with thick, powerful legs–hiking legs–and I looked out of place with my red t-shirt, orange pants and tennis shoes with conspicuous holes. (The only place I look like I belong in that outfit is a Dutch crack den.)
     I was surprised how efficient, easy and cheap the transport was. Italy! Who knew? I might have to rethink my stereotype of Italy. Some things I hope never change: focaccia, gelato, prosciutto crudo…I was disoriented in an Italian supermarket; I couldn’t recognize breads or cheese names, but gamely tried a few.
     I took the bus as far as it would go to La Visaille and walked another hour or so up to Lac du Miage. The views made me lay on a flat rock and vegetate under a glacier that had small rocks constantly melting away into the water under it. It probably would have been an inopportune time for an earthquake.

     Look at the two photos below which were taken about 90 minutes apart. This is near the lake. Notice the snow melt in the second photo. Marco thinks it isn’t necessarily all snow melt but different lighting. What do you think?


     Slate roofs are everywhere around here. Are there other places other than Wales and Northwest Italy where they are so prevalent?
     So one day I am climbing in the crisp, fresh mountain air with cloudless skies and the next I am flying to teeming tropical Bangkok at the peak of rainy season. It’s going to be weird. I wonder what Italian immigration is going to say about my new passport with no stamps in it.

When will Switzerland love me like I love it?

     The hitching went pretty easy today between Leysin, Switzerland and here near Aosta, Italy. I spaced out at times while admiring Leysin from a distance and the mountain pass between the two countries, missing some potential drivers, but it didn’t matter. There were five rides including one woman, a few rides I turned down or they turned me down, and again some angry drivers gesturing at me with hostility. It’s common knowledge that I love Switzerland and I have been there probably more than 10 times and the hitchhiking goes well, but I can’t think of another country per capita where I get so many sourpusses. I was wearing my faded orange pants, which I admit can be rage-inducing, and I should have shaved, so maybe it was deserved.
     The key ride over the Grand St. Bernard pass was with a young guy who thankfully avoided the tunnel and drove over the scenic mountain. Plus, he had a Volvo convertible, which was good for photos.
     An old Moldovan-Italian man drove me down into Aosta. I gamely tried speaking Italian with him, which was a challenge after fumbling through French on the other side of the mountain, but I’m not so hopeless and I understand more than one would think.
     Hey, I’m in Italy! I have been here maybe five or six times, but many years ago except for one quick 24-hour visit in 2007. It feels very new. Tomorrow I thought of hanging around Aosta but Marco, my CouchSurfing host, has been telling me how easy it is to visit Courmayeur and the Mont Blanc–excuse me, Monte Bianco–region. It didn’t occur to me that it was so close. I have to take advantage of it. Time is precious and time waits for no one. (I really need to patent these phrases before someone else thinks of them.) Monte Bianco is the highest mountain in Europe at 4800 meters, but in Bolivia I was higher than that–in a car!
     I took a bus out to Marco’s suburb. Everyone always looks at me crazy when I ask if I need to have exact change for the bus, but in USA it is common and in fact in Los Angeles the bus drivers are purposely issued shirts without pockets because of all the filching.

     The Italian side of the pass to Switzerland

Not so lazy in Leysin, Switzerland

     I am worried about a decline in my female readership. Lake Geneva is in the background.

     I am visiting the world’s laziest blogger, my friend Graydon, whom I met in Japan a million years ago. (The last four friends I’ve visited I first met in Japan, India, Chile and Malaysia.) He averages one post a month, but they are beefy: graydonstravels.blogspot.com. He has been on some real adventures. I have said it before and I will say it again: I am a fraud of a traveler compared to Graydon.

     Graydon bonding with some of the students

     It’s my first time here but I have been nearby in Les Diablerets. Can you imagine that in four months of Europe, the only new places I have been are just a few towns in Switzerland, a village in Hungary and Muenster, Germany? I am mainly here to visit friends, but you would think I could mix it up a little. It’s embarrassing.
     Leysin has always had some resonance for me because just before my first real trip ever to Europe with my best friend, a friend of his, a guy not prone to exaggeration, sat us down and told us about his time in Leysin at a sort of commune. We were in rapt attention as he described a place where people gathered every evening around the dinner table and had exalted conversations that didn’t exist in our worlds as suburban punks. This was our romanticized idea of Europe we had wanted to see, but we never made it and I have never met anyone who knows anything about it.
     Graydon is teaching at a boarding school here in Leysin. I get to eat with him in the school cafeteria, which is a paradise for a traveler, but maybe less so for those paying $60,000 a year for their kid to be here–which makes this school more expensive than Harvard.
     He lives and works in the former Leysin Grand Hotel where the likes of Gandhi, Nehru, Tsar Nicholas II and Josephine Baker stayed and where the piano upon which Stravinsky composed “The Rite of Spring” sits for anyone to play.
     Just down the road is the former Club Vagabond where Mick Jagger, Pierre Trudeau and David Niven once imbibed and which is now a center for Afghan refugees!
     We did a hike with all the students to the top of the mountain above Leysin. After so much sitting around in Hungary I’ve been a hiking madman the last few days. Hanging out with people like Graydon and Monika, it’s good for my physical and mental health. It just goes to show that no man is an island. I should patent that phrase.

Can one travel and blog at the same time?

     I am worried about a decline in my male readership. By the Tegernsee in southern Germany

     I have been busy and active these days, which I need after the slothfulness of Hungary, but the blogging suffers.
     I’ve been receiving some very nice fan mail from travelers who have stumbled upon my site. It might be better for my ego if they replied as a comment so everyone could read it(!) but I’ll take compliments in any form.
     The last three places I have been (Munich, Germany, Ormalingen, Switzerland, and now in Leysin near the Swiss Alps) I have visited some superhuman people. All are extremely fit and adventurous mountain climbers or cyclists or alpinists (which I am not even sure is a word, so you know where I come from) or all three. Beyond that, they are all great people to learn from, too.
     I have had a sudden burst of mountain wanderlust since my friends are into it. South of Munich near the Tegernsee some friends and I hiked up about 90 minutes to a ridge for a great view and where a restaurant stood. Is there an American equivalent? Could a restaurant survive if you couldn’t drive to it, even in a supposedly fitness-crazed California?

Munich, Germany to Ormalingen, Switzerland
     Hitchwiki.com let me down with some bad hitchhiking advice out of Munich. I took the subway to a recommended spot, then had to walk 1km to another place. (Young Kent Foster often rode public transit without paying, but these days I rarely consider it.) It took me seven rides and about seven hours to go from Munich to this village near Basel, not much slower than the train; it was a lot easier than I expected.
     (I have to say as an aside, I am in hundreds of cars a year as a passenger, and I have never ever seen a driver that has mastered how to use their GPS navigation system.)
     Every few weeks I should repeat that some of my friends feel a little funny about being mentioned in my blog. I thought of naming my friends in the blog like we Americans do hurricanes, assigning random names in alphabetic order, but I can’t keep track of that.
     Anyway, so my friend in this little village is called “Monika”, let’s say. Of course she doesn’t want her photo in my blog, and she protested about my desire to have her refrigerator and cupboard on my blog, but I can’t abide by that. Don’t these look like they belong in a university laboratory? It’s interesting what you see and also what you don’t see. She and her mother eat very healthily, as did I during my 40-hour visit capped by a fantastic fondue. (In other words, there was no Hungarian horse sausage to be found.)
     “Monika” is an ultra-impressive girl who walked from Innsbruck, Austria to Monaco up and down mountains with her boyfriend, taking a break between Lenk and Chamonix to recover from a sickness. It’s a little daunting to go on a walk with the Michael Jordan of hiking, to be with someone so at peace, self-assured and self-confident. The only time anyone is in awe of me and my self-confidence is when I am speed-eating a burrito.
     Monika–I mean, “Monika” took me on a long, semi-rainy hike of about 12km through forests and old plum, cherry, apple and walnut orchards dotted with healthy cows. We made a stop at a restaurant for a tea, but otherwise I don’t think she drank water once and she easily carries on conversations uphill. I didn’t have to test her, waiting for an ascent to say, “So tell me about teaching yoga in Thailand.” She knows all the little roots and herbs along the way, irresistably taking a poke at my American-ness: “I didn’t grow up in front of a TV!”

Ormalingen to Leysin, Switzerland
     I would have made better time if I didn’t have to deal with the police. It started out well enough in the soft rain as a woman took me from Ormalingen to near the highway in Sissach, but there was construction and I didn’t know the best place to stand. I walked closer to the highway until a police car coming the other way headed me off. I went into me-no-speak-German mode, which infuriated the policeman closest to me as it made him feel impotent. He got so frustrated trying to tell me off in English that I had to talk to the policewoman who was driving. She told me to go back about 100 meters to a bad spot, which I did without protest. They drove at a crawl behind me to make sure I did what they said. When they were finally satisfied that I was out of the way, they drove slowly by me and the angry policeman stuck his head out the window and yelled, “This is not America! This is not America!” That’s a funny thing to say. I had a snappy answer for him (“You don’t know anything about America!”) but I merely smiled at him in silence, watching his face turn redder with rage.
     After dealing with that, I was a bit down and I reacted inappropriately to the drivers who honk at hitchhikers, of whom I have a very low opinion of. Those idiots, together with the drivers who stop to say they can’t take you, they make the best argument against natural selection.
     I eventually got a good ride to near Bern from a nice guy who told about the local soccer team that plays in a suburb called Wankdorf. The team’s name? Young Boys.
     Of the six rides to Leysin, two were with foreigners, which is a little more than the national percentage. A Frenchman and I started a deep life discussion almost from the moment I sat in the car, which isn’t unusual as people like to confide in hitchhikers. A Portuguese guy then took me, then an older man who went way out of his way to take me up the hill to Leysin because he wanted to talk about Burma and his trips where he ships his car ahead to wherever he goes.
     People think that since you are hitchhiking, you’re not in a hurry. I was in a hurry, but I still begged him not to go so far out of his way. He insisted. We had an engrossing conversation, which was only a shame because the scenery was spectacular and I couldn’t politely be engrossed in both.

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