India, sign paradise

     I wouldn't make a good obesity consultant ('Let me give you my professional opinion: you're fat.') but I like the combination with skin specialist. Do they naturally go together?


     'Hi, I'm Joe Fernandes, son of the late Tony Fernandes, undertaker, sculptor and obesity consultant.' This reminds me of the Woody Allen joke where he went to a funeral and they had made a replica of the deceased in potato salad.


     Wow, tough name to run with. I don't really think you needed to go to all the trouble to trademark it either.


     She and he toilets, an underrated concept. I am thinking of trademarking it.






The reason to make fake flight e-tickets, proven yet again

     The latest fake e-ticket I made was a doozy: a one-way reservation to go from Guwahati in the northeastern Indian state of Assam to Bangkok on Druk Air, Bhutan’s national airline AND issued from a Hungarian travel agency. I’m telling you, it is smart to use these when applying for visas, checking in for flights or for immigration formalities. I had to show it, too, upon checking in at Milan’s Malpensa (Bad Thought) airport.

     Flying over northern Italy


     The airline agent just wants to see a printout of anything with a reservation and date on it (I made it for 3 weeks away, a safe period.) I’ve never had them try and look up the reservation in the computer. If I didn’t have the ticket, I might have been able to sweet-talk the agent since I am a westerner, have been to India many times before, could show lots of cash, impress her with the 22 Facebook likes of my recent blog post to show I’m kind of a big deal, etc, but she could have taken a hard line and made things difficult. The worst case scenario is I would have been forced to buy an expensive, refundable onward ticket. It may ultimately be a 100% refundable ticket, but it wouldn’t have been fun to deal with. I go into more details about the glory of fake e-tickets here on my website.
     I’m normally very bad with telling lies and I’m not one for always circumventing the rules—it’s not my modus operandi, really—but this absurd reservation printout I can show with a straight face. I have zero problem with it since I’m not violating the spirit of the law. Besides, I am too busy with my kidney harvesting business to get so involved with fake e-tickets.
     I had a short stopover in Cairo where I saw that no less than 11 other flights had my same exact departure time. These weren’t codeshare mumbo-jumbo, but 11 flights from 11 gates at 11:15pm.

     I’m in India, using up the last of my multiple entry visas. I just bought an $85, one-way ticket on SpiceJet(!) to fly from New Delhi to Kathmandu, Nepal, 10 days from now.
     Has anyone tried USA’s green card lottery? The application period just opened last week. Details are here. It is by far the easiest way to get permission to work anywhere in USA but you can’t be from the 10 or 15 countries that we already have too many people from. It’s free to apply. This is for 2013, which gives my country plenty of time to have more jobs available for you. I know people who have won it, so don’t be put off thinking that the odds are long. You have nothing to lose. This is your chance to build mosques in Texas or coiff poodles in Alaska or teach deep sea diving in Nebraska.
     There are other pros and cons if anyone is interested in discussing this. I know for many people, working/traveling/having anything to do with USA is a non-starter, but don’t dismiss it outright. Maybe it is even valid in Puerto Rico. You can get regular work visas for USA, but they usually bind you to one job. This gives you the freedom to do anything and change jobs at will.

     I imagine that Indians hate this kind of photo because it reinforces all its negative stereotypes.


     Lastly, apropos of nothing, remember the family of five I visited in Paris that I mentioned two blog posts ago? The couple, they first met at a party, just once, before the woman left to go traveling for a month. When she returned, they dated for a month, and then the man proposed. Eight years and three kids later, they are still going strong. As they tell me every time I remark on it, sometimes you just know. So all you romance cynics and pessimists out there, don’t lose hope!

I’m in Como, Italy. George Clooney, O Brother, where art thou?

     The only thing more depressing than a night in a horrible hostel is the realization that I have to spend another night in the same hostel.
     Took me 12 rides to hitchhike from Leysin, Switzerland to Como, Italy, which I would guess is about 250km (150 miles). It was the usual hodgepodge of crazy people, interesting people, women, men, short waits, long waits, walking from bad spots, and thankfully, good weather. Even if I have the satisfying feeling of adventure and accomplishment, it’s still a very long, tiring day.

     Just your average All-Swiss Lebanese/Cape Verdian couple that picked me up hitchhiking. I sat in the back seat of this sharp Audi in the fetal position to go from Martigny to Sion. Isn't the woman gorgeous? Eight months pregnant, too. Sorry the photo isn't sharper.


     Another sleek Audi, a convertible to go over the Alps. This is the top of Nufenen Pass before we descended into Ticino, the Italian-speaking province of Switzerland. Thank you, Pierre from Lausanne, a gynecologist on his way to a convention in Lugano. Last time I hitchhiked over the Alps, I also got a ride in a convertible. Life's good like that sometimes.


     Nufenen Pass again. Pierre and I went from 1700 meters and 22C to 2450 meters and 9.5C in a flash.


     I’m by Lake Como because I haven’t been here before, it’s near Milan airport, and I was hoping George Clooney, who has a villa here, would pick me up hitchhiking and invite me into his home.
     Instead, I am in institutional hostel hell, paying 20 euros ($26!) for the privilege of sleeping in a 10-bed dorm room with inconsiderate dorm-mates. It would have been 17 euros if I had a hostel card. I knew I forgot to do something on Khao San Road.
     I tried to get a Couchsurfing host, but with no luck. It sucks being a man sometimes. I knew I shouldn’t have had that sex change operation.

     Lake Como. George, O George, my Brother, where art thou?


     Well, well, well, what do we have here? A line at McDonald's that goes out the door? So McDonald's will never gain traction in Italy because Italian cuisine is so entrenched, families always eat together, and the concept of fast food is too alien?


     A nice thing about being back in Italy is, other than Italian girls’ hair, is the supermarkets which have entire aisles devoted to pasta. And great sandwiches can be made. While I’m not a big fan of Italian breads other than ciabatta and I have to pick my cheeses carefully, I zero in on all the tasty cured hams like prosciutto crudo. I would even say that they are like the good lord sliding down your throat in velvet pants.
     Guess how much it costs to send 1 kilo of stuff home from Italy? 14 euros. That’s $18. That’s expensive. I pontificate about this on my website about packing light because it’s expensive to mail stuff home. I just like to prove these things once in a while.

My brilliant plan to emigrate to Switzerland

     Who wouldn’t love to stay and live in Switzerland for a while? Wages are astronomical, the economy is humming, the mountain cheese is ever delicious. Sadly, for Americans it is very difficult to work here legally, but I had an idea. Listen to this: there is a chalet here in Leysin that is used for Eritrean refugees. I think they will be processed and eventually allowed to stay and work and get citizenship. I could go back to Somaliland, buy one of their passports that were going for a mere $60 on the streets, come back to Switzerland and apply for asylum.
     My story is air-tight: Mom was Somali, Dad was a smooth talking, very pale Norwegian, both tragically died in an injera choking accident. My Mexican burrito place, Mogadishu’s Revenge, burned to the ground in a suspicious grease fire, leaving me no option but to throw myself on the mercy of the Swiss. I haven’t thought it all through, but I see potential.

     I’m hitchhiking in Switzerland again out of necessity and leaving Europe soon. Hitchhiking goes pretty well. My first ride took only 30 seconds to get. They were a Portuguese family, but the place I was dropped off made me fodder for the police. Luckily, a farmer took me before the police saw me and I was very pleased despite barely being able to understand two words. What kind of French do they speak around here?
     Then a huge bald guy and his doting blonde girlfriend picked me up. After the first word out of her mouth, I said, “Magyarok!” (Hungarians!). He was Romanian and she Hungarian and they were returning from his Thai boxing match. He had lost, and he was sore about it. He made me watch the whole 20 minutes of the fight on his iPhone to judge for myself. He told me he lost points from a couple of illegal hits to the other guy’s manhood. I saw it. The guy crumbled to the floor like he had been shot. I squirmed. The fawning girl tried to console him, kissing his muscles every few minutes. More squirming.
     Oddly, he was more distraught that I didn’t have a normal life and why I didn’t have a wife and kids. I didn’t know Thai boxing was a normal life. When we arrived and he got out of the car, I could see he could barely walk. It looked like a scene from the movie, “The Wrestler”, he was so messed up from the fight.

     I got a ride from an off-duty taxi driver who told me a funny story. He drove two grandes dames from the Michelin empire from Lausanne to Paris. Guess how much that costs? 2500 Swiss francs! That’s about US$2700 for a six hour drive. Even if you are rich, why would you do that? He said they wanted door-to-door service so they wouldn’t have to schlep their bags. I asked if they had a lot of bags, and he said no. There were rules, too: no music, don’t speak unless spoken to, that kind of thing.
     The next driver told me a different kind of hitchhiking story. He picked up a guy at midnight at the same place that I was standing, in Aigle, on my way to Leysin, and he offered the driver 20 francs (US$22) to go another half hour up to Les Diablerets. When he did so, the guy burst out of the car without paying. The driver told the story jokingly, but it’s scumbags like that guy who make life harder for the next hitchhiker.
     I am back in Leysin visiting my Canadian friend, Graydon, he of the many cycling trips all over the world. He took me on a viciously sadistic bike ride yesterday up 200 meters in altitude at a 12 percent grade, he said, but it felt like 2000 meters at an 89 percent grade. Brutal, but my new-found sexiness can’t be denied.

     When I get tired of this view, I am tired of life. This isn't even in the top five of Leysin views.


     Know about Google AdWords? I am not even sure what it is myself, but I believe they are the ads that show up in the right column on Google search results or on your Gmail. I got a $100 gift certificate from them to promote my site. You bid an amount and if you win, your ad appears. As an experiment I decided to bid 1 cent on every hitchhiking keyword I could think of.
     What it means is, if you do a search on Google for “hitchhiking” or you email someone about it, and you see an ad for my website, you know I paid 1 cent for the privilege. I think that’s how it works. Google says that the word is really worth 30 cents (“Kent Foster” is worth 40 cents somehow) so it will rarely appear, but I am biding my time until I get my act together and get my site looking presentable. I hope it happens in my lifetime.

How not to blog about France

     If I were a professional blogger, you know, the kind of guy who has advertising, sponsors, links to everyone else’s e-books, etc., I wouldn’t be lumping the three or four things I want to talk about into one post. The pro way, paying attention to Google Page Rank methodology, if I understand it correctly, is to make separate blog posts with the right search engine friendly titles and headings. But I just want to attack it all in one post, hopefully with some succinctness. Let’s go!
     Looks like in my next update of the rideshare part of my website I will need to rave about covoiturage.fr as much as I do about the version for Germany, mitfahrgelegenheit.com. I used it three times: coming and going from France and once domestically with drivers from Guadaloupe, Brazil and France. All went well despite one guy leaving two hours later than he said. That’s a risk you always take with rideshare. My French is bad, but I can figure out how to register on the website, takes no more than a couple of minutes and you can immediately get someone’s phone number or email them to take advantage of it right away.
     I paid 24 euros to go from Tienen, Belgium to Paris, 15 euros to go from Paris to Caen, and 40 euros to go Paris-Geneva. Trains in France can be cheap if you can book, say, two weeks in advance, but I never know what I am doing with my life day to day.

     What? You don't go on tours of recycling centers in every city you go to? You don't know how to live, Brother...


     I’ve done the drive between Paris and Belgium a few times now. I think most Frenchmen are dismissive of the flat, featureless north, but I find it evocative. From the moment I cross the border I feel like I’ve entered a pre-war black and white photo. The land isn’t fallow, but somehow feels like it to go with a heavy languid, bucolic, lazy quietness. Even the highway signs and the font of them (which I unhelpfully don’t have a photo of) give it a special character.
     I arrived in Paris like I always do, feeling severely under-dressed. I stayed with friends in the suburbs and found myself on babysitting duty for a couple of nights for these adorable kids. I read bedtime stories to them in my faltering French while they stared at me blankly, but they begged me to read again to them the second night. When I claimed that my French was too awful, the boy gave me the ultimate compliment, saying that it was “pas grave” (OK).
      Even though I can see myself making great strides with my French if I stayed longer in France—and I would love to stay longer in France, let’s state that publicly for historians—the vowel diphthongs really throw me for a loop.

     The precocious boy, barely six years old, takes fencing lessons. France is the best. My friends think he has a possible future as a chef. When I was last here about two and a half years ago, he was critiquing his mother’s cooking (“It needs more salt.”)
     The father (everyone is very nervous about being outed by name in my blog; I tried to assure them that no one reads it), like most people around the world these days, can effortlessly go off on all the things he dislikes about America, but he also wishes his kids would live in USA for a number of years. He told me very eloquently about how Americans have high aspirations and he wants his kids to feel like they can do anything in life. His impression was that a young American dreams of starting the next Google where a young Frenchman dreams of a safe job working for a French multinational corporation. His eloquence is lost in my retelling, trust me.
     It reminded me of a conversation I had with an Italian when we read the story of how Hewlett and Packard started their company after tinkering with electronics in their garage. She said it was unthinkable that the same could happen in Italy. I still don’t understand that how can be, but I haven’t spent enough time in Italy either.

     My friends in Paris always rag on me for being so Paris-centric on my travels to France, so this time I visited the port town of Ouistreham on the Normandy coast as well as where the beautiful people live, Cabourg and Deauville. Apparently, I was extremely lucky with the weather and it never looks like this.


     This nut ran a small restaurant in a small village (as opposed to those giant villages) in Normandy of 140 people. Before I left Paris, as if preparing me for leaving the nest, I was taught an old French expression about food tasting good: “Le petit Jesus en culotte de velours” which translates loosely as, “It’s like the good lord sliding down your throat in velvet pants.”
     Unfortunately, no one had heard of it, but I don’t care. It’s so good, I am going to use it all the time now. In fact, with Google Translate, I might start using it in every language.
     I had all kinds of memorable things to eat in France: a sublime raspberry tarte with a light meringue crust behind the Madeleine church in Paris, a simple, fantastic comte cheese, and, as always, things I didn’t know the names of at the time, which is always for the better, like this below:

     This is 'salade de gesiers' another one of those things that sounds beautiful in French that is lacking in English: 'chicken gizzard salad'. Agree? This is served on a plate of slate. Yes, slate, like what some houses in Europe still have on their roofs.

Things you wouldn’t expect to find in France


     “My tailor is rich”, huh? Is this the kind of sentence that French businessmen are hot to know in English? I can imagine them calling every school in the book and asking if they teach important phrases such as “Can I eat escargots off your unshaven body?” or “Call immigration and let them know about the butler” or “This vichysoisse is too salty. Release the hounds.”

     This sign is great. “Have some prudence! There are 1000 school kids here!” as if a thousand was the minimum number of children where someone should drive safely.
     If there were only 500 kids? “Go ahead and drive recklessly, we’ll look the other way, and if you mow down a few, no biggie.”

     Lady, if you wanted a great job done on your plumbing, you really shouldn't have called Adequat to do the work.



     On my website (did you know I have a website? I really should promote it, shouldn’t I?) I talk about backpacks and packing and I rave about Decathlon, a sports/outdoor department store based in France but located in many countries. I spent an hour and a half of precious Parisian time in one with no regrets. It might be the greatest store in the history of commerce. Behold below, Exhibit A, my new hiking shoes: comfortable even in my fat feet and a bargain at 14 euros, about $19. I practice what I preach on my website!

Belgium, where it all began for french fries and for me

     This is the 25th anniversary of my traveling. For 25 straight years I have been going on pretty long trips (in excess of three months, I define it) and exactly 25 years ago this summer I flew to Brussels, Belgium to begin my first trip. I remember the hostel I stayed at, the Sleep Inn, and I remember going to the receptionist and telling them that all the toilets were broken. He checked, said they weren’t, and I learned that European toilets don’t have as much water in the bowl as American ones. I argue that it’s this kind of deep inter-cultural understanding that prevents world wars. (If you are into foreign toilets—and who isn’t?—I have a webpage for you.) I might reminisce more later but I don’t want to bore people when I am so close to discussing the national food in Belgium, french fries.
     A few weeks ago in New York City I wrote about going to a Belgian french fry place, a frituur, in the heart of Manhattan. In Belgium I am always corrected when I say “french fries”. It makes them crazy, this deep inter-cultural misunderstanding. “Belgian fries!” they protest.

     A large 'frites' on the left with mayonnaise and a small with tartar sauce on the right. When we told the owner that a large in New York goes for 6 euros, as opposed to 2.20 euros here, he said I should study under his wing and then open my own frituur in New York. I'm thinking about it. I have nothing else to do.


     Fries are serious business in Belgium, the world leader in per capita consumption. Even the Wall Street Journal had an article last week about the fate of the traditional “frites” potato, the bintje. Part of the uniqueness of Belgian fries is that they are fried twice in ox fat. It’s definitely not a diet food, if you were unsure. I’m still bloated a day later. Also, the Dutch use sweetened mayonnaise, which horrifies most Belgians. I like both, and mayo only sounds disgusting if you have never had mayo here (or in Japan; they are halfway to french fry heaven.)

     Big building for a french fry place. You know they take it seriously here. The Round Point, Tienen, Belgium


     Hannibal sauce? Bicky dressing? Samurai? I can only say that 'Americaanse saus' is rumored to be spicy.


     The new ultramodern train station in Liege, Belgium. Great to look at, but anti-traveler with poor signage. I can't let that go. A station is meant for the people, not for architecture fetishists.

Is French an ugly language?

     Few things are as alluring as a French girl’s accent when speaking English. (Likewise, it’s hard to imagine an unpopular French girl in America.) I have a friend in France named Carine Veugeois, and the two or three times we have spoken on the phone, I beg her to say “Carine Veugeois” over and over again. I can’t hear it enough. It’s great. It’s probably why she asks me not to call anymore.
     But actual French as spoken in France and here in Switzerland is surprisingly different. It can sound awfully coarse and harsh. It may just be all context, as what would I mostly hear on the streets but the loudest, most boorish, least mellifluous people?
     You’d think that all the smoking would give their voices a nice, dusky, Tom Waits quality, but it’s hit and miss. I contend the dour black clothes adversely influences the speech, too, or maybe it’s my mood when it’s 28C(82F) outside and people are dressed like they are going to spend the weekend in a cave.

     Switzerland might be the only country I ever have visited where I have no idea what the exchange rate is. Well, I have an idea, as it was about 1 franc = $1.20 three months ago when I was here last, but I haven’t checked it since. All I know is that a dollar is worth less than a franc, which is enough to put me in a near-catatonic stupor looking at Swiss supermarket prices.
     I’m thankful I have the chance to cook. If I had to count on a “deal” like this every day from a fast food restaurant, not even hearing “Carine Veugeois” multiple times would cheer me up.

     Now even parking is divided along class lines? Quelle horreur!

In the annals of bad airline names, Jet Airways

     I flew with Jet Airways, an Indian airline, from New York to Geneva via Brussels. It wasn’t a cheap ticket, $432 one way, but I made sure to get frequent flier miles as I read that they might join the Star Alliance soon. I can’t believe they sold me a ticket that had only a 55 minute layover; it required a hustle to make my connection. I forgot to make a fake onward ticket, but I went on the offensive at check-in with a barrage of questions about the layover and I was never asked.
     Judging from my experience with Indian bureaucracy in general and Jet Airways on the phone in particular, I braced myself for the worst, but actually it was a nice airline. I have very low standards, so if you can give me a little legroom and a bell or whistle like the personalized entertainment thing on the back of the seat, I am pleased.
     But what a ridiculous name, Jet Airways. What’s next? Airplane Airlines?

     Geneva is rare in that you can have a window seat on either side and you will have a great view of either the lake or the mountains.



     I am visiting my friend, Graydon, cyclist extraordinaire. He just spent a summer pedaling from Georgia to Estonia—so cliche, isn’t it?—and is now back in Leysin in the mountains overlooking Lake Leman and Montreux. He has a blog about his many epic cycling trips. I will always say I am a fraud of a traveler compared to Graydon, and now he has been to more countries than I have, the bastard. I think he is at 105 now.
     Graydon teaches physics at an international school. Initially, contract negotiations with the school were tense as Graydon demanded two nametags on his door. See? Once you pass 100 countries, you become full of yourself!

Things you wouldn’t expect to find in New York

     You can’t look at New York with old eyes. I have only explored a few days, but I walked a lot, over 15km through Manhattan my first day, and you can’t go by the old stereotypes. I’ll say it: New York is accessible. New Yorkers are accessible. It’s an exciting place to be. I’ve long been a California snob and resent the East Coast concentration of power, but I would love to live in New York.
     I was last here exactly 10 years ago during 9/11. The short story is here.

     Just your average All-American dentistry and gynocology shop! This was in Harlem, a part of town I hardly have any photos of because Harlem is almost boring in its normalcy.


     Previously, I'd only seen this in Japan. Space is valuable here. I'd love to live in New York, but renting is an issue. I met a woman who pays $1770 for a 300 square foot (28 sq. meter) place on the Upper East Side. However, I stayed with someone who paid only $500 a month for a nice one-bedroom place in Crown Heights, Brooklyn.




     This was a cool candy shop in Little Italy called Papabubble. What they are making in the pictures is hard candy for Margot’s birthday party on 9/10/11. The letters are made large and then when it is rolled small, the letters become small. How is that for a poor explanation?

     Melting pot food.

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