Japan is different, Part 2 of 5,723,992

     Not many people know this, but “Japan” is a relatively modern word originating from the Meiji Dynasty that means “without garbage cans”. (TheDromomaniac.com is a laff riot!)

     The can in the middle is a new, milk-based drink that has the flavor of pancakes.

The plastic food display phenomenon is spreading to other countries, poised to take over the world.

     Individually-wrapped bunches of grapes, above, lead to expensive bunches of grapes in the store below (6800 for the box, 85 yen equals one dollar.)

Back by popular demand: more Japanese toilets!

     My inbox has been overflowing with requests for more toilet photos from Japan, so here you go.



     And here on the “arm” of the toilet above you can see the four alphabets that the Japanese use. It’s not easy to learn, but it’s amazing how much English is incorporated into everyday Japanese. In fact, is there another language that is more infested with English than Japanese? I’d be surprised if there was.
     I have a Japanese cassette tape to learn some vocabulary, and it seems like the whole thing is a joke:
English voice: “fork”;
Japanese voice: “for-ku”
English voice: “chicken soup”;
Japanese voice: “chicken suu-pu…”
     This photo on the right is from a bar. Squat toilets are said to be beneficial for your constitution, but let’s hope your aim is good and that your car keys don’t go down the hole.
     Notice the water coming out of the tap at the top so you could wash your hands. That’s Japanese efficiency.

     I am hitting the tennis ball better these days. Since Greg is better than I am at virtually everything—save Hungarian pastry consumption—it’s good to give him some semblance of competition once in a while.

The Japanese flea market and more hitchhiking


     Is this the couple of the year? Could be. This is from a flea market on the perimeter of the Yokohama stadium where the 2002 World Cup soccer final was played. I am a big fan of flea markets anywhere in the world, but Japan’s are especially fun. It kills me that my hands are tied because I can’t carry around heavy or bulky stuff and I can’t store too much at my friend’s place, but I did buy a winter jacket. It was by far the only practical thing I bought.
     I did see someone selling a cassette with the album title, “The Changing Same.” Has there ever been a better title in the history of music? I think not.
     I’m beginning to look Japanese in the photo below.     On the Yamanote train line they have monitors that tell what is going on in the rest of the transit system and I often see a delay with the explanation shown that they are “clearing tracks”. This strikes me as a euphemism for someone who has thrown themselves in front of the train. Japan has a high suicide rate and it is such a common way out that the train companies have begun charging the families upwards of $20,000 for the inconvenience caused. They also try putting blue lights on the ends of some popular platforms which is supposed to mitigate any bad ideas.

An ad on the train for mascara for men

     I hitchhiked 200 km back up to the mountains of Nagano prefecture, but at night. It was similar to last time where I got a quick ride with a couple, then there was a long wait before a bunch of guys in a van took me to the highway exit I needed. Others did stop, including a tipsy guy who wanted me to go to a temple with him for two hours before he took me further. I declined as politely as I could. (Really, I speak a hitchhiking and flea market Japanese and the rest is just flailing.)
     I don’t like hitching at night for the obvious reasons that it is slower and I don’t like staring into headlights, but I also can’t see the drivers’ faces well. In Japan it is always fun to see the four reactions to me hitchhiking: the I’m-ignoring-you face, disgust, confusion, and delight. Notice that only one is positive, but that’s OK. Hitchhiking is a numbers game. You just need to wait for The One.
     I was at the highway interchange at 10:45pm, not looking forward to the attempted hitch 25km up the mountain to the sleepy village of Sugadaira, but two young guys picked me up after only a five minute wait and took me straight to Greg’s place. Lucky!

Leonardo DiCaprio, Japanese tire salesman

Hitchhiking in Japan is fun! The Tokyo story in words and pictures

     Had a great time hitching to Tokyo from Ueda, which is about 200km away. It was easy, interesting, free, good for my Japanese and a nice story. How could anyone pass it up?
     I waited only a few minutes in Ueda when a woman stopped, but she was going the wrong direction. (I only mention it because it isn’t rare that women stop for me.) Another few minutes later a guy I know, Daisuke, picked me up. He didn’t know I was in Japan, so he was surprised. He had this look on his face the whole time.
     I love this picture below. This guy took me next. I was standing at the end of the service area (the highway rest area with a ton of clean facilities such as a big restaurant, numerous souvenir and snack stands, gas station, etc.) and he skidded to a halt. The guys working at the gas station must have been as surprised as I was. I don’t see these cars often on the road, and hipsters like this, when would I ever have contact with them? It is the miracle of hitchhiking. Know the name of this car? It’s a Nissan Fairlady. No joke! He asked, “Is it OK to drive fast?” Yes sir!

     Above is a sign in a smoking area and below is a map of the Tokyo area traffic for commuters showing traffic delays. Miyoshi is at the last big parking area before Tokyo. As a hitchhiker you need to know what you are going to do from here. Japanese drivers, too, want to know exactly where you are going because they don’t want to get stuck driving you out of their way if they don’t intend to, and sometimes they feel obligated to no matter how much you try and convince them that you will be OK.
     Tokyo has a unbelievably complicated transport system as you’d expect from such a huge megalopolis. (What’s the statistic? 30 million people live within a 50km radius of the Imperial Palace?) The zenith of this is the elevated city highway system. All of Bangkok’s highways are elevated, which can make for quite a sight, but Tokyo’s makes it look quaint by comparison. It feels like you are in a video game or a science fiction movie.

     But this time at Miyoshi there was some construction, a new side exit for cars AND police all over checking papers. All of this meant I couldn’t hitchhike. Instead, I had to hustle rides from the parking lot. I dislike doing this in any country for various reasons, but at least I can speak a form of hitchhiking Japanese and I know how to submissively approach people.
     I profiled the people coming out and I approached a couple of young guys that looked like good candidates, but they were on a bus. 10 minutes later they came back and said that they had asked the teacher on their bus and he said I could go with them to Shinjuku, right in the middle of town. Yes!
     They were 30 Keio University students, all studying international tax, on their way back from a “study trip” to Shigakogen. When I heard that, I called them liars (it’s a very mild thing to say in Japanese, really!) and they admitted that it was indeed a weekend of drinking. I was surprised so many pretty girls study international tax. The comely girl in the middle of the photo specialized in Dutch tax. She asked if I had been to Holland and if I could speak Dutch. “Of course!”, I said (That coughing sound you hear is from my Dutch friends.) She gazed boldly into my eyes with more seriousness than I was expecting and pleaded, “Teach me Dutch!”
     It’s easy to get anywhere from Shinjuku as it’s the busiest train station in the world (3.6 million passengers a day). Changing trains and running around Shinjuku and Shibuya train stations on a Saturday night is something everyone on this planet should see once. It’s hectic beyond belief, and the people are dressed in ways I can’t describe. Young Japanese are nothing if not fashionable, and in the high heat and humidity, let’s just say it was quite a show.

Japan is different, Part 1 of 5,723,992

     “I have a reservation at Yellowish, but let’s grab a bite at Atlanta Crazy Crepes first.” I would love to be in the brain-storming session when they come up with these names.

     This place looks like a bar but is actually called a snack. A woman called a mama runs the show and dotes on everyone, making conversation and constantly pouring drinks even if the glass is two-thirds full. There are customers' names on every bottle of whiskey, and yet two very watered-down glasses of whiskey were 10,000 yen ($120). But this wasn't my deal. You think I would pay that? Wait, what is that jar in the bottom right of the photo?


Yes!

Literally, Ma-ku-do-na-ru-do Ha-m-ba-a-ga-a

Six months away—and love is pork!

     Exactly six months ago today I left home and flew to Colombia. Feels like eons ago, which is what traveling usually does, prolongs time, but the money is dwindling and I don’t see myself lasting more than another month unless my modeling career takes off.
     Bought a used tennis racket yesterday and broke the strings today after half an hour.
     Let’s move on to some good news. Compliments of a friend of a friend, last night I ate at a $50 a head Nepali dinner in town. (For how long could a Nepali in Nepal eat with $50?) En route to the hotel where the event was, I saw this poster which is sweet affirmation because if I’ve said it once, I’ve said it a thousand times: love is pork!

     A guy sleeping uncomfortably in the parking lot of a 7-11 while the doors are open, bags are on the ground, and his friends are inside reading comic books. Japan's the best.


     Japan has no zoning regulations that I can see so you can build skinny buildings like this anywhere.


     Japan is not expensive, Exhibit B:
     5 bananas for 39 yen (83 yen = one dollar). The moment a banana gets some spots on it, they are heavily discounted.

The undeniable joy of ramen

     On a dreary day in Ueda, Japan, this bowl of ramen prepared by these two nuts hit the spot.

I am honored.

     I can never get used to dreary days. I suppose when you live in a four season climate like Japan, you appreciate a nice day that much more. Once I visited a family in Sweden one midsummer, and we were having dinner indoors on account of the bad weather. Suddenly, sunlight broke through and like a flash, the entire dinner table was immediately transported outside so we could soak in the precious sun.
     How can you live in such a climate? I have almost no appreciation for good weather because I am rarely in bad weather. I follow the sun.
     I get a trickle of fan mail, people out of the blue who have stumbled on to my website. It’s amazing that anyone can find my website since I have made only half-assed attempts at promoting it. I get that warm and fuzzy feeling from any comment or email as blogging can feel like being trapped at the bottom of a deep well where no one can hear me. I answer any and all questions whether you write to me privately via the contact page or, for the big ego boost, on the website somewhere as a comment, so don’t be shy.
     I am so embarrassed about wearing the same orange pants all over the world that I made a webpage about it.

The eternal mystery of the Japanese toilet

     Someday I am going to sit down somewhere and move my old website, kentfoster.com, to this website. It’s going to take forever as it must be over 100 pages that have to be recoded, but I can say with some certainty that subsequently the most popular page of this website will be my Toilet Photo Spectacular of unique toilets around the world. I make no assumptions about what this means about us as a society. I’m just here to give the people what they want.

     I have trouble programming a VCR; how long will it take me to master 16 buttons on a toilet?
     What if I don’t want the bum rush? How do I just flush the thing? Luckily it is fully equipped with sensors. In fact, the toilet lid lifted automatically as I approached it.
     It is rare that public toilets in Japan, even in the busiest of places, won’t have toilet paper. Speaking of which, since I am recently feeling my mortality and I see that life is too short not to ask, I have begun interviewing friends about their toilet habits. The revelation has been the negative view of using toilet paper—but this is maybe a topic for another time. Why did I bring this up?
     Toto, the manufacturer, is the Rolls Royce of toilets in the industry—just so you know. I think top-end toilets, and I have seen them with remote control, are upwards of $5000.
     By the way, also on my old website, I have a pretty large section on Japan. The most interesting parts are probably the pictures of the variety of people who have picked me up hitchhiking and the pictures of the has-to-be-seen-to-be-believed Harajuku/Yoyogi Park scene. You won’t be disappointed. Check it out!
     I’ve been teetering on the verge of being sick the last couple of days, probably a manifestation of my sleeplessness. It’s always a relief to be visiting a friend and not dying in a hostel when you are sick, but it also can’t be much fun for any host or friend to deal with a lifeless, possibly contagious blob.

A visit to the world’s largest ski resort—in September

     The good people at Lonely Planet inform me that Shigakogen is the world’s largest ski area. I have a deep aversion to all things associated with cold and winter, so it was fortuitous that Greg wanted to check it out in balmy September.
     This photo above kills me. Not just because it is $10 to go up and down this unnecessary beast. Not just because it is bright blue and completely out of place in this beautiful natural landscape. Not just because a guy is needed to “assist” those people about to get off this painfully slow treadmill. No, the greatest thing is the painted arrow and sign on the ground telling you which way the exit is, because it would be impossible to go anywhere else.
     Japan is overly helpful like that. When I got off the plane a few days ago, as I was about to step off the aircraft and on to the elevated gate that you walk to get to the airport terminal, there was a woman in white gloves standing there and extending her arm to show the way. There is absolutely nowhere else to go. It’s a narrow tunnel leading to one destination and yet there she is directing traffic.
     A guy on a ladder might be fixing a light bulb on the side of a shop and a big area will be roped off with pylons, there will be a walkway detour with flashing lights and five overly-vigilant guys in elaborate uniforms equipped with electric wands are on guard to guide people around.
     This is the kind of thing that makes Japan fascinating to me unlike any other country I know. Japan is mind-blowing in so many small ways that a first-time visitor can’t help but wander around in a perpetual mild state of shock.

     The other side of the mountain has a scrubby landscape that has a highly sulfurous smell from all the natural hot springs. I became nauseous, but I bravely stayed conscious knowing my billions of blog readers demand it. Lake Yugama here is really a bright aqua color as it has one of the highest acidic levels in the world, though my camera doesn’t show it.

     I like that the nicely crafted wood bench is left untethered while the tacky plastic electric ice cream cone is chained to the pole, though in America you would need 15 locks as a college student would try and steal it in 2 seconds. The cone is pretty cool, isn’t it?
     I must admit that I once spent a day in Kyoto trying to find and convince a candy company to sell me a similar plastic electric model of their otabe-chan, which, when plugged in, is a woman whose head bows nonstop while proferring her sweets. It made such an impression on me that my first email user name was otabe. (Yes, I was a full-grown adult male at the time.)
     Soft ice cream in Japanese is called “softo”, which you can’t get me to stop saying.
     What’s significant about the building on the right and the setting of this photo? Amidst this little farming village, far away from anything, tucked between orchards and dilapidated barns is a sharp Italian restaurant. (The toilet was fantastic, too. I’m thinking it deserves its own blog post.) You can have a viable business in Japan in the most obscure and unlikely of places.

     Japan is not expensive. Exhibit A:
      Even at 83 yen to the dollar, chicken at 290 yen a kilo is a good deal, methinks.

My 9/11 story

     I was in New York City on Sept. 11, 2001. I talk about it as an aside on my CouchSurfing and Servas page (Is it narcissistic to quote myself?):
     “I was in New York to volunteer for a few hours in the Manhattan Servas office just before my flight in the afternoon. I called the day before and told them I would go downtown and have breakfast and then come into the office right when they opened, which I thought was 9am. They said the office actually opened at 10am which turned out to be a fortunate bit of timing as the date was September 11, 2001. The Servas office was on John St., just one and a half blocks from the World Trade Center and had the office been open at 9am, I would have already been in the area when the planes hit at 8:45am.”

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