Budapest Dreaming, a Day by the Pools

Greg and I decided to test out the new highway and hitchhike from Pecs back to Budapest. We like to save money, too, and while 4400 forint (US$20) for a three hour train ticket to the capital wouldn’t kill us, that’s two or three nice lunches, and we were up for the challenge. Only problem was that Greg is my size and has a giant backpack, so here we are, two big guys with a lot of baggage trying to get a lift. I applied the secret weapon, an American flag on my pack, and in about 30 or 40 minutes a guy picked us up and drove us straight to the middle of Budapest.
The guy who took us was non-plussed that I could speak some Hungarian, but sometimes drivers are so surprised and in disbelief that I am not half Hungarian that they ask to see my passport as proof of this, not because I speak Hungarian well—because I don’t—but that I can at all since learning Hungarian isnt something you take on lightly or easily on a whim.

The high-speed whirlpool at the Szechenyi furdo. It doesn't look wild from this photo, but it's a blast.

It was Greg’s birthday and he was keen to see a Hungarian medicinal bath, plus I had never been, so we made our way to Szechenyi furdo. It was a lot different than a Japanese onsen. Some of the big complex was like a swimming pool party, a fun place to hang out, play chess, laze around and delve into the crazy whirlpool. It’s a shame it is so expensive (3100 forint/US$14) or I might spend my summer there working on my website. (Wait a minute, there are season passes. Let me think this over…)

A random girl at the Szechenyi furdo upon whom my camera lens somehow found. I only include this photo to break up the texty look. That's all.


I guess I need to write something here. Oh! I met a Russian girl named Svetlana on the bus back from taking Greg to the airport. She swears a doofus like me (she kindly didn’t put it in those terms) can make 40 euros an hour teaching English privately in Moscow. That would be a great place to summer, too.

My Pecs Nostalgia Tour—Long Live Locks!

This is one of my favorite things about Pecs, one of two metal gates totally covered in locks, each symbolizing a relationship. Most have the names of a new couple written on them. You know how hard it is to hacksaw off a lock at 3am, in the dark, on your back? Um, me neither.

Hungary’s transport is so Budapest-centralized that from Balaton it made sense to go all the way back to Budapest to then go down again to Pecs. All highways lead to Budapest, all major train lines, and 1 in 5 Hungarians live in the capital. It’s to the detriment of the development of the country.

I made a quick two day stop with Greg in Pecs, (I am sure there is a way to incorporate an accent mark over the “e” in “Pecs”, but I haven’t dedicated myself to finding it yet–and it is pronounced “Paych”) the town I used to teach English in. I see they still have made no progress on a statue of me in front of the school. That slight notwithstanding, living in Pecs was one of the best things I have ever done. It is also the only time in my adult life I have lived in one place for 8 months.

As much as I like Pecs, I was surprised to see that it was chosen as one of the 2010 Cultural Capitals of Europe. This despite that it is something of a Hungarian backwater. The highway only arrived this year. A 4th Tesco in construction and a huge shopping mall are actively sucking the life out of the town. Tesco is saturating Hungary like nothing I have seen before. It is unbelievable how a giant Tesco will be found in the smallest of Hungarian towns.

Greg and I stayed with a friend on the hill overlooking town with an amazing view. She offered Greg a welcome drink. “I have pear brandy, plum brandy, cherry brandy, Czech brandy, Polish brandy…” and when Greg was stunned into silence by these choices, she said she also had beer and wine and everything else.

We went to Villany so they could drink local wines and enjoy watching me drive home, which I suspect is the real reason we went. Everyone and their mother is in the wine business in Villany and the wine cellars often serve zsiros kenyer (literally “fatty bread”) which is white fat slathered on a slice of bread with raw onions and paprika to go along with your wine. I would love to see the reaction on the patrons of California’s Napa Valley wineries if that was offered to them, but if they take the plunge, I have to admit they might find it tasty, too. I forget the reason fatty bread and wine go together, but I would bet major research at top Hungarian universities has been done.

My friend eating zsiros kenyer without her permission to use her photo, though I didn't ask either. This is the compromise I make.

We watched the World Cup from a TV hung outside with a picture perfect view over Pecs. Couldn’t have been nicer and the extra space allowed us to practice our World Cup referee gesture for “No!”, which is two index fingers together and then quickly drawn apart. It’s the simple pleasures in life…

The time blew and I didn’t get a chance to see some old students/friends of mine, very regretfully. Maybe I can get back down.

A Goulash Weekend near Lake Balaton

Orsi and Bence with famed one-note troubadour in the background

A bunch of us from my friend Peter’s workplace spent the weekend in the northern foothills of Lake Balaton in the hamlet of Obudavar. Jean arranged this. He wants you to learn Hungarian and read his blog:
http://blog.metc.hu/janc.php

This is the group. Jean is the pregnant one, fourth from the right.

I contend it is something rare and Hungarian that nearly everyone in the group works together in the same office and then they all hang out together outside of work for drunken weekends like this, bosses included. How many other places do you see that?

Obudavar is a beautiful quiet place of minimal landscaping, a village with no stores and only a cell phone signal by the sign that tells cars how fast they are going, so all the city folk have to schlep up the road to the sign to make a phone call and check their messages.

We walked through the vineyards to Uncle Toni’s place where he sucks wine out of big barrels and with his semi-clean index finger acting as a stopper, incessantly plies everyone with nonstop sweet white wine. He does it all for free, and sells the rest for only 225 forint a liter, exactly one dollar.

Uncle Toni, a spry 86, sucking wine out of the barrel

We sat around by the campfire to roast big slabs of fat that are then dripped on to some bread with onions and paprika. Where else west of here would you see people in their thirties eating that, especially women? In California if you proposed to a girl that you go roast chunks of fat by the campfire together…let’s just say it’s a non-starter.

The next night bogracs gulyas (“kettle goulash”) was made over an open fire. Hungarians have funny ideas about the proper way to cook it, such as rotating the pot 90 degrees every 15 minutes, but it’s always good.

Peter instructing Greg and me on the intricacies of cooking gulyas

Of Hungarian Ways

My American friend, Greg, is visiting for a week.   He lives in Japan and wants the world to know about his mountain lodge, two hours north of Tokyo, which is available for groups to rent.   It’s called Hoshi Boshi Lodge, “hoshi boshi” meaning both “star-filled night” and “star hat”. The entire reason it is named so is that when anyone calls, he can answer the phone rythymically, saying, “Moshi-moshi, Hoshi Boshi. Boshi hoshi?”   (“Hello, Star-filled Night Lodge, would you like a hat?” which he also sells.) This is the link. I think there is video of me somewhere on there chopping wood.   I do have archive-worthy technique.  

Hungary hasn't come close to qualifying for the World Cup in many years, but there is a lot of demand here to watch the games, so all over town there are giant TVs. This is long after the game. There really were crowds!

It is interesting to see my beloved Hungary through a friend’s virgin eyes.   I think people are not used to Hungarian ways and often misinterpret their first impression of Hungarians being aloof.   They certainly aren’t the type upon introductions to bellow, “How ya doin’? I’m Zoltan!   Damn glad to meet you!” That said, we were both freaked out by a shopwoman at 2am who intensely stared us down like she was going to have to later tell a police artist what we looked like for “Wanted” posters.

Erzsebet Bridge in Budapest

I have to adjust my routine since Greg is here, as my idea of a good time in Budapest is to help anyone I see looking at a map.   Budapest is very hard to get oriented with the odd language and all, and I like steering people in the right direction.   I say in measured English if I don’t hear what language might be their first, “Do you need help finding something?”   Almost always there is a moment where they look me over, not sure if I am a shyster up to something and trying to decide if I might really be from here, but ultimately they all seem glad for the help.
I even helped a young out-of-town Hungarian girl find a church she was looking for.   I could tell she was confused that an obvious foreigner was giving her directions, but she was pleased, too.

When I am alone in Budapest I sleep on the floor of my friend’s office, which doesn’t fly when I have someone visiting.   I looked at double rooms in hostels, but hostels in Budapest are very poor value for money.   I knew there had to be something else and went to good old craigslist.org where I found Marton of budapesting.com.   He is a part of this encouraging young breed of entrepreneurial Hungarian who buys and/or rents out lots of properties all over the city.   Greg and I pay 15 euros each for a room in an apartment.   For two nights we had an apartment for ourselves. Earlier in the day I checked out a nearby hostel and a bed in a 7-bed dorm in a cramped hostel was 13 euros.  

I find it hard to come to grips that I’m paying US$18.50 for a bed in any arrangement in Hungary.   I still distinctly remember my first time in the country when I found it physically impossible to eat one dollar’s worth of pastry items from a bakery, or when I was caught on the bus without a ticket by an angry inspector and forced to pay a fine of two dollars.   That was in the good old communist days of 1986.

Lots of Hungarians naturally have a voice made for TV news anchoring, both men and women.   All day long it feels like you are hearing audition tapes with their deep, serious, steady monotone that would translate well to the small screen.

A friend told me of a flight in July, Milan to Bangkok, 180 euros one way, all taxes included.   That might be too hard to pass up.

Look at this photo. Hungary’s the best.

"Honey, I am going to put on my white suit and go work on the car!"

When I watch these World Cup games I like to see how cold and bundled up the fans are and how many empty seats I see.   It is the middle of winter in South Africa, and many stadiums are well inland, making for some chilly evenings. The next World Cup in Brazil won’t be any warmer in the southern host cities.   Sao Paulo in June?   No thank you.

I was in Denmark watching the first game on TV of the 1994 European Championships between Romania and Bulgaria in Newcastle, and there were tons of empty seats.   Up until that point I had read of massive sellouts, but I decided then and there to hitchhike to the ferry and I went to England. I saw three games in three cities, buying tickets for reasonable prices outside the stadiums, and found three places to stay with little problem. The point is to just go and it will work out, something I will expand upon in my website relaunch this summer.

When I am filthy rich (North Korea on 10,000-1 odds to win the 2014 World Cup—trust me) I am going to buy stadium advertising for the World Cup just to promote a friend’s business like Nelli’s Tutoring or Peter’s Corner Bar.

Troubling Trends in Soccer—Viva North Korea!

My two main problems with soccer are diving and fouls on corner kicks/free kicks from the side.   I love to see yellow cards for diving.   Is there no way to do some sort of video review of diving, even after the game, for punishment? It is the scourge of the sport. I lump in with diving the players acting like they’ve been shot when they’ve been touched.   Last night Ivory Coast really went Deniro, but Brazil does, too. Yes, Lucio, I mean you, and who can forget Rivaldo against Turkey in this clip at the 55 second mark?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E9jjEqRfqoM

There are always multiple fouls on corner kicks, as we see from the constant replays of USA’s disallowed goal against Slovenia.   When have you ever seen a foul called against the defense in that situation?   Ever?

In a similar vein, why are foul throw-ins never called?   It’s easy, obvious, frequent, painless and yet they never do.

While I am on a rant, I am tired of everyone covering their faces after missing a shot.   They didn’t do it in the old days, just like no one celebrated goals by pushing away their congratulatory teammates to have their personal moment of glory.   Can you imagine Socrates slapping aside Zico and Falcao after a goal so he could run alone to a random spot and crow for the crowd?

I enjoy watching Maradona strutting like a peacock on the sidelines.   It’s hard to take your eyes off him.

North Korea is playing today.   Even though they lost their first game, aren’t they worth $10 at 1000-1 odds to win it all?   What team has trained the longest together?   What other team is more prepared?   Who is faster and fitter and has the most fighting spirit?   What team will never quit?     What team is less scared?   Day to day life in North Korea has to be more frightening than a stupid soccer tournament.   The Asian qualifying group they came out of is no slouch either.

The Mother of All Hitchhiking Miracles

It is a very high-risk, all-in move to try and hitchhike to an airport with a non-refundable flight ticket, but I have done it quite a few times before, and my hubris/moxie/chutzpah knows no bounds in these matters.   I successfully hitched to Weeze airport in uber-rural Germany again today, but I couldn’t have cut it any closer nor been luckier.  

A friend left me at a highway gas station just south of Arnhem, but the Dutch don’t patronize their highway rest areas like the Germans do, and traffic was predictably light.   I really should have gone a different route.   It was suicide to negotiate two highway changes and to hitch through backwater roads on a Sunday.  

Two old Armenians(!) listening to loud techno music(!) drove me about 70km to Venray, only 30km or so away from Weeze.   They were the first to save me.   Next was a priest(!) driving a PT Cruiser(!!!) listening to chamber music. Third was a German guy who drove me to the Weeze turnoff where I discovered I was just about out of time but a pedestrian told me I was only 2 or 3 km away.   I might strangle him next time we cross paths.   It was at least 10km, but I started walking anyway. I was getting in a panic, which isn’t a good look conducive to getting rides.

Just as my luck was running out and I was faced with a long hitch to Budapest, missing tonight’s Brazil/Ivory Coast match, a man stopped for me, drove several km out of his way and shuttled me straight to the airport.   I don’t know his name or anything about him, but he really saved me.   My gift of a postcard of Yosemite Park was so inadequate to express my gratitude, I felt bad giving it.

No one was in line at the Wizzair check-in desk, just two agents chatting, and when they saw me running through the airport to them they sighed in perturbation (is that a word?) at having to deal with me so close to the gate closing time. I really had only seconds to spare.  

When I got dropped off by the Armenians, several policemen on motorcycles aggressively stopped traffic and told everyone to wait five minutes for this bike race to pass.

The girl working at tourist information in Budapest’s ancient terminal one, I knew I was back in Hungary when  I saw her.   I just can’t imagine many other countries where such a girl in such clothes would be working as the face of tourism.   That’s all I’m going to say. I have to go back to the airport Tuesday to pick my friend up.   Maybe I can finagle a photo.

Repeating my life story, Danish pronunciation

I hitchhiked from Arnhem back to Zeist, where I am just for one night.   It took me a lot longer than I thought, which is something I am saying a lot lately, but I blame it on my orangish apricoty pants, seven day beard and tired eyes.   The guy who did take me the 50km drove me straight to my friends’ farmhouse.   He knew where it was because he was at their neighbor’s BBQ last weekend.   Small world.

In those 50km I told my life story to the curious driver, which I always gladly do.   Most people can’t imagine tolerating the endless repetiton of answering the same ten questions from every driver, all day, but I don’t mind at all.   It’s a very small price to pay to someone giving you a free ride.

I learned a great Dutch expression today:   “Ikzie erwel brood in”, which literally means “I see bread in it” but effectively means, “I see a future in it.”   I hope  I can remember that.

Denmark is playing Cameroon today in a big World Cup match, loser very likely goes home.   By the way, if you ever meet a Dane, ask them to pronounce the words “Bo” (a name), “bog” (book) and “Bov” (a town, but also something to do with a landscape, I think) and watch their consternation when you claim they are repeating themselves thrice.

As a further aside, let me say that you can’t go wrong marrying a Danish girl.

R.I.P. Ipanema sandals: born Aug 2008 (Aracaju, Brazil), died June 2010 (Hattem, Holland)

It was bound to happen. We had a good run. Shared a lot of memories together, covered some serious ground. We lasted much much longer than any other I had before. Some people say that you shouldn’t get too attached to a pair of sandals (It used to be common terminology to refer to sandals/slippers/flip-flops as thongs, but these days the word brings only snickers.) like any inanimate object, and I usually abide by that, but I might wear a black armband tomorrow anyway.

I like the recent trend in obituaries that shows a photo of the deceased in the prime of their lives, not at their weakest, soon before death, so here is a photo from Colombia, March 2010, with my right sandal still going strong, still a vital part of my life.

In happier times

When I first bought these from this supermarket in Brazil with the Amazon roller skating women, I was a little disappointed by their relative weight since weight is everything in your backpack, but they were so durable over the years that I came to think of these Ipanema “anatomicas” as indestructible and an extension of me.

I’m flying to Budapest on Sunday from Weeze, an old military airport in Germany between the Dutch border and Duesseldorf for 40 euros one way (US$50) on the dreadfully named Wizzair, definitely a Top 10 Poorly Named Airline. Also on the list is a now-defunct—of course!—airline I flew in South Africa called 1time. Wizzair had a deal I couldn’t refuse since it would take two very long days to get to Budapest by hitchhiking and I miss only one World Cup game this way. The ticket was only 19.99 euros including all taxes, but it’s 5 euros to pay with a credit card and 15 to check in a bag–30 if you don’t pay online!

Done been gone traveling for three months now.

Dutch urinals, windows, elections and height

A Flemish friend reminded me from my post on May 30 about my name having many meanings in other languages that “Kent” is also a Dutch word meaning “to know” (2nd and 3rd person singular). And as you can see below, “Kent” also means “lung cancer” worldwide.

I have been to Holland maybe 15 or 20 times and it goes without saying that I love it, but I have to admit I always feel a little uneasy here. This country makes me feel unprepared for the future. It is so socially progressive and innovative I feel left behind.

Here’s an example of Dutch innovation: have you ever noticed in a urinal a picture of a fly at the bottom? (Were any women nodding their heads? Or did I just open the door to man’s inner sanctum?). That’s to improve your aim. That’s Dutch. Think it’s not a big deal? New York City hired the geniuses behind that idea to implement it in their airports. They probably paid millions, too.

For me nothing is more Dutch than having a giant, curtainless window on their house right next to the street so it is almost impossible to walk by without having a look inside. The Dutch are nonplussed about this, of course, which has the effect of making me feel insecure that I felt the need to peer into someone else’s house.

Someday I will have a photo here to show the giant window. In the meantime, a photo of a pancake machine.

At the same time, Holland is very quickly becoming a less tolerant place. I arrived in Holland on the night of national elections, a big event as the right wing party did extremely well. It’s led by Geert Wilders, an inciteful firebrand whose manifesto is based on only one-issue: keeping Holland Dutch, meaning kicking foreigners out, particularly Muslims. It’s funny that Wilders himself is half Indonesian and his wife is Portuguese, but apparently no criticism sticks to him.
Lots of Dutch travelers I have met recently say they will emigrate if Wilders becomes president or influential as part of the government, which appears very likely as they horse-trade to put together a coalition.

So, with all this tumultuous electoral upheaval, the nation at a crossroads, a time of reflection as to where the country is headed, what was the second biggest story in the news on TV after the historic vote? That the Dutch, the tallest nationality in the world, have leveled off in height. I only heard about it from a friend.

I would have loved to see a sweaty anchorman with a melodramatic, “This just in, breaking news from the Bureau of Statistics…”

I do feel short here, the only place in the world I am self-conscious of my height and not slouching. I am a formidable 187cm tall in other countries, but here, I’m a runt.

It’s a shame I only have a couple of days here and then have to blow east, but it’s great to relax and do nothing in my friend’s cozy, renovated farmhouse.

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